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Thread: Behmor 1600 Plus - Coffee Roaster

  1. #501
    Senior Member artman's Avatar
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    Gene Cafe Coffee Roaster $850 - Free Beans Free Freight
    Quote Originally Posted by taco View Post
    The bit of the drum/basket that connects to the motor shaft broke off mid-roast today. I'm going to try and reweld it, but I'll also try and email Andy to see if he's got spare parts in case I stuff that up.
    That is weird, its a solid chunk welded to bars than the drum outer ring.

    Pretty sure a replacement drum is quite cheap, I'm sure Andy will help out.

    Cheers

  2. #502
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    The bit that separated was the cylindrical bit (that is squared off at the other end and inserts into the motor shaft) from the square metal plate that has a hole in it that the cylindrical bit sits in and is tack welded together. That metal plate is still attached to the bars on the drum.
    It's 5 years old and has roasted just under 200kg of coffee, plus a little bit of cacao and the occasional hazelnuts too. Not bad for the first repair needed.
    New basket/drum has arrived already, great service as always Andy.
    I'll still try and re-weld the shaft bit back on to the original once I borrow a welder, but no stress now if that fails.
    Oddly, fastway delivered the parcel from a regular car instead of a van/truck. Must have had a small parcel round today.
    Last edited by taco; 12th September 2018 at 11:29 AM.

  3. #503
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    After grabbing one of these from the Forsale section. I've tried a couple of roasts, one thing I am not sure about is...I am following this advice posted in this thread or somewhere else.

    When I get to the rolling FC, I am hitting C and P3 and it resets the timer back to 2.06 (was at about 1.51) and then the P3 constantly flashes, I thought I'd see something on the temp graph to reflect the lower power? Do I need to hit 200 again, then C then P3?

    Use 200g or 400g batches. 200g best while practicing.
    No preheat.
    Select P2 and B
    At FC (after several cracks) hit C and P3 for 50% power

    You can let it run the full time to get a decent roast. Alternatively hit the + once for slightly darker or stop it 20sec early for a bit lighter.
    ColRoast.JPG

  4. #504
    Senior Member CafeLotta's Avatar
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    Pressing P3 and seeing it flash indicates you're in manual mode at 50% element power. Refer this Quick Reference Guide for Manual functions (Behmor 1600 Plus models) - http://www.behmor.com/docs/New-Progr...-Plus-V4.2.pdf

    For those that have an older Behmor 1600 model and may be reading this, these functions become available with a front panel upgrade if you're up for the install. I can vouch for it being worthwhile doing - http://beanbay.coffeesnobs.com.au/Vi...-upgrade-grams

    The one thing I find missing with the Behmor is an ability to display the current element power when in program mode. If its variable rather than stepped, this is irrelevant I suppose. A graph as a PDF which shows Progam (P1, P2 etc) with time v Element Power (or target temp) at various points in the program would be very useful as a guide when manually tinkering with element power after first crack.

    You may need to experiment with the other power settings as shown in the Quick Reference Guide and maybe use A and B to view exhaust channel or chamber wall temps via the Behmor's sensors.
    Last edited by CafeLotta; 2 Weeks Ago at 01:56 PM.
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  5. #505
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    Thanks for the links, I read the manual but obviously missed this. So looking at the graph I posted, should I have seen any decrease in temp at 50% power? Or is it an insulation situation where it will maintain the temp.

  6. #506
    Senior Member CafeLotta's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rockford View Post
    Thanks for the links, I read the manual but obviously missed this. So looking at the graph I posted, should I have seen any decrease in temp at 50% power? Or is it an insulation situation where it will maintain the temp.
    I can't answer that question. I think it would be a case of finding what % element power and duration is required in manual mode to maintain or increase/decrease the temperature.

    As I suggested earlier, you probably need to experiment in manual mode and take note of what changes occurr for future reference.

    The program intelligence utilises the information that the temp sensors provide and follows a roasting template in accordance with whichever P1-P5 program is selected. In manual mode it's all up to you!
    Last edited by CafeLotta; 2 Weeks Ago at 08:15 PM.

  7. #507
    Senior Member simonsk8r's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rockford View Post
    After grabbing one of these from the Forsale section. I've tried a couple of roasts, one thing I am not sure about is...I am following this advice posted in this thread or somewhere else.

    When I get to the rolling FC, I am hitting C and P3 and it resets the timer back to 2.06 (was at about 1.51) and then the P3 constantly flashes, I thought I'd see something on the temp graph to reflect the lower power? Do I need to hit 200 again, then C then P3?



    ColRoast.JPG
    G'day Rockford! Just wondering, where abouts is your temperature probe located within your Behmor? Am just wondering why the line flattens out for the whole thing even going through FC and rolling FC etc. Usually it will keep rising, and then as you lower the temp that line will not be as steep a gradient so as to indicate a lowered heat input/slower heat increase, but it depends where the temperature probe is located.

    I have mine setup inside the drum itself after modding it.

  8. #508
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    Mine is as per the diagram below using the probe I got from here. It barely peeks out of the metal inside (probably 1-2mm) could the radiating heat of the metal be causing issues? If it goes too far in it will catch the basket?

    Last edited by Rockford; 2 Weeks Ago at 10:32 PM.

  9. #509
    Senior Member CafeLotta's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by simonsk8r View Post
    Am just wondering why the line flattens out for the whole thing even going through FC and rolling FC etc. Usually it will keep rising, and then as you lower the temp that line will not be as steep a gradient so as to indicate a lowered heat input/slower heat increase, but it depends where the temperature probe is located.
    There's a fair chance that's due to hitting P3 at first crack and going to manual element power control rather than letting the Behmor program control the element power. Instead of 50% power, 75% power and monitoring temp closer may have been required.

  10. #510
    Senior Member simonsk8r's Avatar
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    Ah right, but it reaches about 126.5į, then it sort of goes a little up then down, then FC and all other things are happening around this temperature. Yeah it may catch on the drum if you put it further in, but am curious how other people's graphs look like with that probe position. Sorry I can't help more! Just trying to understand what the probe is reading.

  11. #511
    CoffeeSnobs Owner Andy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rockford View Post
    I thought I'd see something on the temp graph to reflect the lower power?
    You are (but don't realise it).

    The drop in input temperature at that point isn't to make the graph lower, it's to maintain a slight positive ramp.

    If you continue to apply the same heat the graph will show a very sharp rise after first crack (up to 45 degree angle) and the roast will finish way earlier. It's also very hard to control a run-away roast which is the reason that lowering the power at 1st crack slows everything down (don't stop it or go negative) to a manageable pace and gives you a chance of repeating the roast next time.
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  12. #512
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    I got my behmor delivery on Wednesday, unfortunately the top cover was dented but only cosmetic. Spoke to Andy and said he’ll send a replacement panel so all good.

    I did a thorough read through of the manual (as I usually do for new toys) then proceeded with system prep, burn in and first roasts. I got a bag of vintage coffee (I’m talking 2008) from the coffee farm across the road and some low quality beans from last year’s crop. All for free!.

    i loaded up 100g of the vintage stuff, hit 100 and start. Everything seemed to be working well, watched through the window as it came to roast, heard the first crack but seemed to keep on cracking so I didn’t recognise the second crack. Beans got darker, thought to myself yes. This beauty will roast nice and dark for my Italian brew.

    Then there was smoke. I guessed that was normal, but more and more smoke. Lots of smoke. I was expecting a fire. Then it went into cooling.

    Second batch I used the newer beans, same settings and it finished up as you’d expect. No smoke, not too dark, I’m guessing the old beans were way too dry.

    All in all, I’m quite happy with this beast, and even happier it’s been around a few years and spares and support is available.

    So. Now a bit of feedback. Yes the manual is confusing, takes quite a few reads and some google searches to work it out. I think I understand it, but I need some clarification on the P buttons. Correct me if I’m wrong.

    In auto mode, P1 gives the hottest and shortest roast as per the profile graphs in the manual, but in manual mode, P5 is the hottest roast with no profile cures. Yes ?

    Shame about the hard to read display in bright situations, an LCD would have been a better option, maybe there’s a good reason it wasn’t chosen?

    I know the reasons why an alarm isn’t going to be available but that doesn’t mean we can’t modify it and add one, the only show stopper is I’m assuming it is using a custom cpu which would mean replacing the program with another one. And I guess that won’t be happening any time soon.

  13. #513
    Senior Member LeroyC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gretsch View Post
    I got my behmor delivery on Wednesday, unfortunately the top cover was dented but only cosmetic. Spoke to Andy and said heíll send a replacement panel so all good.

    I did a thorough read through of the manual (as I usually do for new toys) then proceeded with system prep, burn in and first roasts. I got a bag of vintage coffee (Iím talking 2008) from the coffee farm across the road and some low quality beans from last yearís crop. All for free!.

    i loaded up 100g of the vintage stuff, hit 100 and start. Everything seemed to be working well, watched through the window as it came to roast, heard the first crack but seemed to keep on cracking so I didnít recognise the second crack. Beans got darker, thought to myself yes. This beauty will roast nice and dark for my Italian brew.

    Then there was smoke. I guessed that was normal, but more and more smoke. Lots of smoke. I was expecting a fire. Then it went into cooling.

    Second batch I used the newer beans, same settings and it finished up as youíd expect. No smoke, not too dark, Iím guessing the old beans were way too dry.

    All in all, Iím quite happy with this beast, and even happier itís been around a few years and spares and support is available.

    So. Now a bit of feedback. Yes the manual is confusing, takes quite a few reads and some google searches to work it out. I think I understand it, but I need some clarification on the P buttons. Correct me if Iím wrong.

    In auto mode, P1 gives the hottest and shortest roast as per the profile graphs in the manual, but in manual mode, P5 is the hottest roast with no profile cures. Yes ?

    Shame about the hard to read display in bright situations, an LCD would have been a better option, maybe thereís a good reason it wasnít chosen?

    I know the reasons why an alarm isnít going to be available but that doesnít mean we canít modify it and add one, the only show stopper is Iím assuming it is using a custom cpu which would mean replacing the program with another one. And I guess that wonít be happening any time soon.
    Yes, youíre spot on with how the P buttons work. Donít worry it took me about 4 or 5 times through the manual to finally understand it all. And you really need to have used the machine a few times before it all sinks in. I agree that the manual could be better written or even just laid out better. I put this to both Andy and Joe a while ago. They are more than happy for anyone to have a go at re-writing the manual, but they believe it does the job for now at least and theyíve got enough to do without adding that to the list. Thatís fair enough I guess. Iíd love to have a crack at it, but am similarly time poor. Maybe one day. Thankfully we have Coffee Snobs to come to for advice and tips and thereís a wealth of knowledge and experience here amongst members to draw on. Also youíre right about the 10yr old coffee - unless itís been frozen it would be very very dry and I highly recommend you donít roast any more. Happy roasting!!

  14. #514
    Senior Member artman's Avatar
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    An easy way to recall manual power modes is the portion of red (hot) to blue (cool) on the ring surrounding the P buttons. P5 is all red (100% Power), with more blue is introduced towards P1. It gives a visual reference, I found it handy when getting the hang of the roaster.

    Cheers
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  15. #515
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    There is a story behind that too...
    Those little (near invisible) rings are all we could get away with on the Plus model without having to submit the whole roaster for recertification (read: US$50,000+ bill).

    Initially we had the percentages under the buttons and it was really clear but C-Tick had a hissy at that so we went down the subtle coloured rings instead.

    Ahhh certification bodies can and will send you insane.
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  16. #516
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    Quote Originally Posted by artman View Post
    An easy way to recall manual power modes is the portion of red (hot) to blue (cool) on the ring surrounding the P buttons. P5 is all red (100% Power), with more blue is introduced towards P1. It gives a visual reference, I found it handy when getting the hang of the roaster.

    Cheers
    yeah right! I didn’t notice that small detail

  17. #517
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andy View Post
    There is a story behind that too...
    Those little (near invisible) rings are all we could get away with on the Plus model without having to submit the whole roaster for recertification (read: US$50,000+ bill).

    Initially we had the percentages under the buttons and it was really clear but C-Tick had a hissy at that so we went down the subtle coloured rings instead.

    Ahhh certification bodies can and will send you insane.
    Unbelievable — NOT!

  18. #518
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    Hey guys - my drum basket is turning a little brown/bronze(?) looking after quite a number of roasts lately. Anyone's got tips for cleaning back to original state? For eg. soaking in Cafiza cleaner ?

  19. #519
    Mal Dimal's Avatar
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    Behmor Coffee Roaster
    Just grab some "Simple Green" from Bunnings mate, spray liberally over the drum (once removed) and then hose off. Works a treat...

    Mal.
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