Thanks gang! All done. Now for a quick brew and hopefully straight forward reassembly
Thanks Barry . yes I took some photos and drew a simpleton's diagram as I went.
Worst case you can peel back the black heatshrink and reapply new. Label all the wires, theres a few of them! NOt too bad if you are putting back straight away, otherwise gets trickier as time passes (for me anyway...).
I'm a bit late to see this but yes, the locking spade clips are a pain to get off until you get the technique right.
I find a pair of needle nosed pliers works a treat to depress the locking pin (following along the wire, not 90 degrees to it) and it slides right off.
Something like these work well:
Sometimes, the Angled version can be easier to use if access limitations are difficult...
Thanks Andy and Mal. I've done it "the hard way", but I got going and am happily finishing my second roast for the day!
Yeah, we know that. I think Mal and I were only posting in the thread so when someone else finds it one day they'll see the punchline.
Glad you got it sorted, happy roasting!
Got it in one mate...
Hi all, has anyone had a 1600 Plus take longer than usual to roast?
My roast times (400g, P2, A) have gone from 18-19 mins duration, to 24-25 mins. first crack was 15.5 to 17 mins, now 22-23 mins.
Same CS beans, same location/method/etc.
Check the afterburner (roof heating element). Hit the cool cycle and see if it lights up.
Originally Posted by shauno
Have you been cleaning it (particularly the area around the temp sensors) as per schedule? I'm not sure that afterburner failure would extend roasting times so much....it is more likely to cause excessive smoke after first crack....but can't hurt checking.
You can also run a system self-check
Thanks, afterburner doesn’t seem to light up...
Is this an easy fix?
Remove the afterburner and inspect it.
Obviously with the roster unplugged...
Remove right side panel, left side panel and top panel.
You can get at the afterburner.
If the wire is broken near one of the terminals you might be able to reattach it.
If it's broken in the middle you can't (as the Ohms will then be too high).
We normally carry some as spares but they in the roaster order that didn't arrive in December, Jan, Feb, March and nearly April.
How do they break? Typically from someone slipping with the sprung door and it slams closed while the after burner is hot, the shock breaks the wire that's more brittle hot than when it's cold.
Open yours up and post a picture of what happened for further remote diagnosis.
Thanks, will do...
So it’s the “hot wire”, rather than an electrical wire that breaks? If it was electrical I could probably solder or replace it...
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